One of the most experienced designers, James Ferreira, says the old Bollywood superstars never requested free outfits.

The stars were so elegant and well-mannered, he just loved to work with them.

In a candid interview with HT Lifestyle, James took aim at the commercialisation of modern fashion, shared rare recollections of a former cinematic era, and echoed on the nation’s changing soul.

James Ferreira – the designer who has designed for Rocky, Disco Dancer, Shahenshah, and many more. Which became historic in Indian cinema, calls modern fashion a polyester-obsessed money game, and talks about the aura, honesty, and vibe of working with vintage Bollywood superstars.

Lived in Mumbai’s Khotachiwadi — historic East Indian (Roman Catholic) community native to Mumbai and the Konkan region — lives James Ferreira. He is not merely a legendary fashion designer; he is an original, unfiltered developer of Indian fashion, a culinary archivist, and a living repository of raw, old-school Bollywood lore.

Today’s working culture varies a lot; it’s a hyper-managed corporate machine dominated by PR armies and meticulous stylists. James, who entered the industry designing for Sanjay Dutt’s debut film Rocky (1981) and exited after the death of Smita Patil, rejected the idea that modern Bollywood is ‘structured’.

The designer says the styling is not structured; in fact, it creates clutter. ‘How much time I worked in the industry, I never gave a free outfit, nor did anyone demand.’ Not a single superstar asked either. They worked with a lot of love and connection.

James worked under producer Kishore Bajaj at the label Badasaab, designing for iconic films such as Disco Dancer (1982) and Shahenshah (1988). Despite his massive impact, he admitted he ‘hated’ the film industry and hasn’t watched a Hindi movie since Sholay (1975).

The designer remembers the aura and the stars, and his work, which he loved immensely.